Trek to Kumara Parvata

PS: Why is KP named after Kumara (Ayyappa)?

Because after the trek, you will be left with achy bones and muscles and will be saying Ayyappa after each step…he he…

19th March 2010

After coming from office, I hardly have enough time to pack my stuff. I get all of them – tripod, trekking poles, camera, filters, clothes, shoes, big water bottles and rush off to the nearest auto stand. Hailing the first auto I come across, I shelled out 90 bucks to reach BMC office. I got the first seat in the tempo traveler number AB 303. Altogether 18 people were supposed to be part of the trek and 2 TTs were arranged; so we were supposed to have enough space for keeping the luggage. A few minutes later another participant comes on a bullet, and come in to the TT. I introduce myself; the new trekkie is Kamesh, who apparently had lots of trekking experience – Ladakh and ombattu gudda treks and all - and this was the first participation in BMC. The TT started at around 9:15 pm and we pick up a few guys at Manipal Hospital. Naveen gets on board there. From there on we move nonstop to Kukke. Midway there is a stop at some location; here I get a thums up, 5 stars and 2 chikki packs.

20th March 2010

I was awoken by Naveen at around 5 am; we had reached kukke pretty early and were supposed to wait for at least an hour by which time the hotels would be open. At about 5.30 am we get our luggages and move towards Neo Mysore Café. Thanks to a broker, we ended up getting some rooms nearby, where we quickly freshed up. Our coordinator seemed to be a tad upset that some of us were having bath – an inauspicious thing to do before a trek – just kidding, that was my addition. After having a quick breakfast at the Neo Mysore Café, we set off on our trek. I had a pretty good premonition that this trek would be a success, come what may. By then, there was already a distance between the real serious trekkers and the trekkers with serious appearance (me). We had to walk about a km on a tar road, till we reach a board giving various distance to various locations. It said Bhattara Mane (Translated: Brahmin’s home) was about 6 km far. We had a quick round of introductions. And then we start off.

Oops! All I remember next was climbing steep inclines till Bhattara Mane. I try out the rest step technique. It was effective in that I didn’t get short of breath and experience leg pain; however, I ended up climbing very slow and thus being the last of the pack. Giving me company was Mallya, who seemed to take frequent rests, over take me, and take rests again. The rest of the pack was soon out of our sight and it was only the two of us walking along the well trodden path. Every now and then a pack of college students would breeze past us like mountain goats. Slightly mid way between the board and bhattara mane was a rock towards our left. That was the spot where I took some rest. Two localites also breezed past us only to be found taking rest some distance ahead. Apparently, they run to and fro between Kukke and Bhattara Mane every day to bring in groceries. Puffing and panting, it was around 11.30 am to 12 pm when both Me and Mallya came towards a place strewn with boulders. I could hear a cock-a-doodle-doo. I could also see tiles of a house projecting amidst various trees which seemed to be part of a serious, practical home garden. We had finally arrived at Bhattara Mane.

I could see lots of trekkies sitting in groups under the shades of various trees in the garden. Few from BMC, including Naveen, were sitting at the edge of the portico. Naveen, at this point, felt that trekking was overrated as he had covered the distance at a good pace. I removed my gaiter, shoes and socks so that I could let feet breathe some air. Upon doing a quick check, I found out that Bhattara Mane indeed HAD Indian toilets for trekkies; two of these were functional. Lunch was served at around 12.30 pm. Rice, Sambar, pickles and butter milk were available on buffet. Though the food was not meant for those with superior tastes, it seemed to meet the requirements of all the tired trekkies who were just grateful that there was someone in this desolate place who would care about us. There were lots of plates covered with dust, we had to wash them under a tap and help ourselves.
After lunch, all BMC trekkies debated on the next step. Should we stay atop Kumara Parvata that night or return back to Bhattara Mane that night? After debating the pros (seeing sunset, sleeping under the stars) and cons (wild animals, food) of staying on the top of the mountain, we decided to stay on the top. So all the BMC trekkies kept their nonessential stuff at Bhattara Mane and moved on to the top. Yours truly had nothing nonessential; this could have been a decision that I could have regretted.

Just a short distance away, there was a stage with some seats on a cliff. The views from here were breath taking. I am sure that in the mornings and evenings, this spot would be a photographer’s delight. All of us snapped photos to our heart’s content. Hoping for more mesmerizing views, we had to move along. We had a quick stop at the forest office, where we had to pay fees for each head and camera. From this point on, our BMC trekkie train meandered along the paths on the plains with the sun mercilessly vaporizing any sweat it could squeeze from our bodies. Again, it was just a matter of time when I an Mallya were the only two guyz from BMC to be lagging behind. Finally, we arrived at a spot where there was a lone tree which was throwing some shadow on the rocks surrounding it. Few of our tired team mates were resting on the rocks. It took me nearly half an hour to cover about 100 metres of distance between myself and the tree, slow but surely crossed one rock at a time. Once I got there, I got to the most comfortable rock available and took about half an hour’s rest. In about 15 mins, it was me and Mallya alone. Mallya was snoring by now. I fixed a small crack at the edge of my Camera LCD display. Surprisingly, I was philosophical about the decay it had attained; perhaps it was nature’s way of telling me that I need to get a new Camera. At about 3.30 pm, I woke Mallya up. When we had gotten our stuff loaded on our backs, few students came to occupy the shade. They were still debating if they should stay under the tree or push on. Some seem to be fascinated by all my gear and bags and what not.

Next, after some time, we reached a spot where could see the stone Kalyana Mantapa (Translated: Marriage Stage). About 30 metres below it were 3 rectangular pools, one below the other. The top most feeding water to the next, and the next to the one below it. We filled our water bottles, and tried to replace as much water that our bodies had lost to dehydration. After about 5 minutes of rest here, we again slowly trudged towards the kalyana mantapa. Mallya preferred to take a break, whilst I preferred to move on. After about few minutes, Mallya caught up with me again; how I admire his speed pick up. We took a five minute break, when I had my first pack of chikki. This was time where both of us actually spoke something about each other; both of us like landscape photography and were canon fans. After some amount of trekking, we then came to a spectacularly shaped mountain, which resembled a snake rising to strike. Few of other trekkies said that was Kumara Parvata. We were unsure but could see a lot of trekkies dancing on its top. So both of us assumed that it was the KP. At its base, both of us took another 5 minute break, where I had a five star chocolate. From this point on, we climbed up pretty fast, each trying to ensure that we were climbing up at a decent pace – it was unspoken mutual motivation at best. Suddenly all of the guyz dancing at the top seemed to be missing. However, I did spot a head bogging every now and then. In a few minutes, we reached the top of the mountain.

There was Krishna, our trek coordinator, and 3 other guyz from our group, resting on the top. My first question was “is this kumara parvata?” The answer was no. It was apparently the next peak. We were on top of Shesha Parvatha (Translated: Snake Mountain) Our other BMC trek mates had gone for that peak about 20 minutes back, while the four of the remaining decided to stay back. I was willing to go the distance; so was Mallya, it appeared. However, our trek co-ordinator, felt otherwise. It was felt it would be dark soon and hence it was not advisable. Suddenly some clouds started coming towards us from the west. The visibility was reduced to 10 metres. The soundness of our trekking coordinator’s decision was clearly evident. Thus, we also missed the sun set. This continued for about 2 hours or so. We were worried about the whereabouts of other team mates. However at around 7 pm, we could see some torch lights being flashed from Kumara parvata; hoping that it was our team mates, we flashed our torches in return. Two team mates, who had successfully climbed the KP returned back to us. Parallely, Krishna showed me a spot where I could park my sleeping bag. It was a cozy spot with rocks on both side which could prevent me from rolling over the cliffs and on the head side there was a small shrub that could double up as a pillow underneath my sleeping bag. I was put off seeing some ants strolling around my sleeping spot, but then turned philosophical that I should be more understanding as I had rudely gotten into their exclusive property. I hoped that they would not try invading my bag which contained the covers of the emptied chocolates. I tried to relax by doing Shavaasana for some time; at around 7.30, we had lit up a bon fire, and Krishna took the lead in baking the chappatis, and handing them over to each of us in turns. We smeared the chappatis with chocolates and ate at least 3 chappatis each. I asked Krishna if we could climb up the KP early in the morning, at about 5 am; he replied “may be, if we wake up by then”. At 8 pm, we practically had nothing to do except go to bed. We tried to identify a few constellations in the sky, which was clear by now. I set my wake up alarm in my cell phone for about 5.30 pm. Having the torch and cell phone by my side, I was soon asleep.

21st March 2010

At 2 am in the night, I was wide awake. I gazed up against the sky. I wondered if Shesha Parvatha was named as such because of increased sightings of snakes, and soon found myself praying that no snake should creep inside my sleeping bag. Sleeping under the open star-filled sky is an amazing experience, but I did not want to be swept away by this as I have a “normal” life to return on week days. There was a feeling at the back of mind that experiences of this nature could be more common in my future. I kept waking up every half an hour. Sometimes, I would be awoken by cool winds from the east; this would make me get into the sleeping bag, assume a fetal position and pull over the head piece into the bag, effectively converting this sleeping bag in to a cocoon, and thus insulating myself from cold. At around 4 am, I went for another round of actual sleep.

At around 5 am in the morning, I could hear some sounds coming from Kumara Parvata, which was to our east, my head side, and also see some torch light signals. I flashed my torch in return. A few minutes later, I could hear some sounds from the west, my leg side, from the base of snake mountain. I flashed my torch light at them too. Suddenly, I realized I had to take a decision. If I joined this group, I should be able to make it to the top of kumara parvata by sun rise, and hopefully return back on time. Quickly packing my bags, I bid good byes to my fellow team mates who seemed a trifle surprised at the suddenness of events. One team mate advised that I would first encounter a forest and then a stream, after which there would be a lot of “rocks”, where I would have to be careful. Keeping that in mind, I joined the new gang of trekkers. They were 3 college going students, who were wondering if our mountain was KP. It was my turn to tell them that KP was the next peak, and if we walked fast enough, we could be on top of it by sun rise. Though a little disheartened, the kids decided to move on to the peak.

We moved on slowly in to a forest, which seemed to be occupied by thin trees. We went along what appeared to be a path, with me leading the way. After some point, I got disconnected from the group and found myself in middle of nowhere, snaky thin trees all around, but could see an occasional empty juice bottle or wrappers, signaling some reminders of by gone trekkers. I hollered at the trekkers that my path had ended and asked them to flash their lights. When they did, I started moving toward the light. I soon discovered that I was not travelling along any path; however, in the interest of saving time, I rushed towards the torch light like a mad bull, tearing between all the trees, with my multiple bags on my back. Anyone who knows about my lack of sense of direction would have had a hearty laugh at the situation I found myself in. Soon I was back with the group and I mentally vowed to never part from this group until we had some day light. No stream was still at sight, so some members in the group doubted if there was any stream at all as they had never heard about it. Soon, we did encounter a stream, but no bridge to cross. We walked along its bank till we found one.

After crossing over, we came across the “rocks”. Those were more like a precipice. I was unsure for the first time in the trek, if I could ever make it to the top with my bags. The day light was slowly making its appearance and we were losing time. The kids climbed quick like spider men, but no humans were in sight. There were however another bunch of rocks at a dangerous incline, which seemed to be a bed of a water fall which had dried up during summer. Realizing I was holding the kids back, I told them to move on and that I would be able to make it to the top eventually. Again, slowly but surely I came up. Next, I saw a group of young trekkies camping towards my left; I asked if there was any other camp, to which they pointed towards the east. Towards that direction, there was lesser incline; however, my energy was sapped by this point that even the last 50 meters was looking challenging. In my mind, I had given up hope of seeing the sun rise as it was way beyond 6.30 am now; my only solace was that I still climbed the KP. Putting my emotions in check, I move along. Finally I saw Upendro, a team mate and Naveen. Both seemed to be perplexed and surprised seeing me. I was surprised that the Sun had still not risen. I quickly set up my tripod, when Naveen said the rest of the team mates were planning on moving down to base camp as they wanted to cover as much distance possible before the sun prevailed. I said okay and that I would spend at least half an hour on the peak. Soon thereafter, another team mate came to me and said to me that all of them would have to leave the peak as they wanted to leave for the base camp and that I would be left alone, and hoped that I would understand. I replied that it was perfectly okay with me and they could carry on. Although, I was a bit surprised and felt odd that the team mates would want to give the sun rise at KP a miss after going through such an arduous trek, but then turned philosophical that each person has his priorities.

I spent the next 20 minutes taking photographs at various locations on the peak. I even requested another trekkie to take a couple of my snaps with the sun in the back ground. After taking photos to my heart’s content, I packed up and started moving down. I had calculated that my return trek would be more easier than my arrival; I have never been so so wrong in my life.

On nearing the rocks, I met two kids who could have been around 18 years of age. I requested one of the kids to take my snaps. I was amazed at the amount of snaps and the way the kid applied himself to compose the pictures so that the background went well along with my picture. Next, I gave them directions to the peak and then started to make my descent very, very carefully. On my crossing the forest, and climbing the snake mountain and going beyond, I took some really wonderful snaps. The trek till the mound just beyond Shesha parvatha was uneventful. After that I felt tiredness creeping in to me. Every now and then, some kids would over take me. I was very very tired by the time I reached the water pools where I filled up my water bottle. After taking a 5 minute break I moved along. I could see a platform with seats on from a far. I was certain Bhattara Mane was close by. However upon moving further ahead, I saw another platform with seats on another peak. It was a disappointment, but there was no alternative. I had to move along. I would get sudden bursts of speed where in I could cover about 20 meters and then rest for a minute or two and then go 20 meters on. What complicated the descent was the merciless sun and the small stones, lesser than the size of my feet, which made stepping down, a challenge.

As I got closer to Bhattara Mane, I saw Krishna, our coordinator, who was waiting for me. Apparently he had been checking with all those who had returned asking if they had seen me. He told me that all of our team mates had started to the base at Kukke, and that he was the only one waiting to be sure that I returned back. I was very happy to see someone waiting for me. I also gave a quick explanation to the anxious forest official, who seemed to be genuinely concerned, explaining the reason for my delay. He took me through a shortcut wherein I had to get down a vertical wall doing a lil’bit of rockclimbing and cross a few dried up streams over long pieces of log. I was so glad that I finally returned to Bhattara Mane.
I quickly freshened up and had a plate of upma with pickle. Also had a brief chat with the man of the house, Mr. Bhat, in my native tongue, Tulu, again giving the reasons for my delay. After filling up my waterbottles, I was ready to go. This time Krishna insisted on carrying my tripod bag. We must have started at around 11.20 am. Krishna estimated that we would be at the base camp by 1.30 pm; however, a half an hour later, he revised it to 2.30 pm – after taking in to cognizance my slow walking.

The fatigue and the sun were finally beginning to act on me. I found it difficult to walk for more that 20 meters of stretch at a time. Krishna felt my walking sticks were delaying me and hence took those off; he then advised a different walking technique wherein I was supposed to lean a wee bit towards my back and bob from side to side, thus preventing the momentum from toppling me downhill. I found this useful for some time. After what seemed like ages, we reached the forest area. I was thankful to get at least a lil’protection from the sun. But now, my walk was reduced to 10 meters at a time. I also started taking more 5 minute breaks. Mind you, I had not taken any half an hour relaxation break since 5 am in the morning. After a stage, I would lean on to a tree, zero in on the next tree which would be about 5 meters away, and then literally push myself on to that next tree.

Meanwhile Krishna was getting some calls from some folks at Kukke who where getting impatient. Apparently few wanted to go early to Bangalore as their work shift started early during the day and few others wanted to watch IPL. I was beginning to feel sorry for putting Krishna in a precarious position. I could overhear Krishna speaking to the drivers and asking one of the drivers to lead the first group to Bangalore ASAP. For my part, I was not completely happy about the way the some group members handled themselves. Trekking the entire distance at top speed is one thing; lacking the restraint or sensitivity to wait for a person left behind is something else. Not that I was in a dire situation, but situations like these define the true grit of an individual. I made a mental note not to let anyone behind like this should I ever reach the base camp first again in my future treks. However, I chose to ignore my feelings. By this time, I was chanting various Gods’ names on taking each step down. Every series of elevations or inclines would create a fresh round of disappointment, but I pushed on. At times, I felt I might reach down at 4 pm; but I had to move one and not let Krishna down. Time and again, Krishna insisted that I hand over my bags to him and just focus on walking down; which I refused because a) I didn’t want him to get tired b) I had to get the feel of a real trek. At some point, I saw a localite carrying a big can of milk and rushing down. I asked him how far the starting board was, to which he replied “5 minutes”. I was initially elated, before this question popped in my mind “whose 5 minutes?”. Those minutes felt like an eon. I shouted out loud at Krishna’s direction “Can you see the board”, he said “no, but I can hear vehicle’s horn, so we must be close by”. At that level of fatigue, that was not a good answer to hear. However, I trudged along. Finally I could see the board. I gave a final shout at Krishna’s direction, “I will not be able to walk any further; please get me a vehicle” – childish, I know – but it was the fact. Thankfully a Jeep arrived just in time, and the driver was gracious enough to give us a lift. We arrived at a shop where we got overselves a Nimbuza each, not before I tripped off the dustbin of the shop, sheepishly apologizing to the shop owner. We then walked over to Neo Mysore Café, bought ourselves some goodies. Just then, I met a few fellow trekkies to whom I apologized for coming late and thus delaying them; however, they brushed it off saying they came here just half an hour back, and that they were just about to have lunch.

I desisted from having lunch as I felt that I might puke later on owing to exhaustion; hence I picked myself a couple of cool drinks and biscuit packs. I still had to trudge quite a distance towards our tempo traveler which was parked about a furlong away. It was very hot inside the tempo traveler. I gulped 2 bottles of Nimbuza and chomped on a few dates. Even the driver was grumpy, asking for an explanation for the delay; I told him that I had been the root cause and that I got to peak and got back late. He was more understanding by now. By then, I noticed that my basecamp bag had travelled along with the first TT.

I sat in the TT for about an hour, before all of the folks got in. Then the spotlight fell on our driver, who displayed extraordinary driving skills to ensure we reached Bangalore by 10 pm. Lots of folks exchanged seats as they were feeling pukish; I was glad that I made the right choice all along.. :) Midway we watched a couple Jackie chan’s hilarious movies dubbed in tamil on a DVD player which would pause every now and then owing to a loose plug. We had a stop at Chennarayapatna for a quick bite. Naveen got us biscuits from a bakery; I shared my chakkli which I had bought at Kukke. After dropping all of the folks at appropriate points, Kamesh, myself and Krishna got down at BMC office, where we collected our stuff. Kamesh gave me a ride on his bullet till the nearest autostand, where I bid him goodbye and set a course for my home.

All in all, this trek was the one where I was tested to my limits even though I had prepared to the best of my abilities. I was able to come out with some improvement areas / plans for myself. Was blessed enough to catch the sunrise at KP and sleep under the stars. Got some good snaps. It had all the drama and action – hence I would rate it as one of my successful treks.